男士穿衣经：来自汤姆·福特的分享 MR TOM FORD’S STYLE RULE BOOK

男士穿衣经：来自汤姆·福特的分享 MR TOM FORD’S STYLE RULE BOOK 每一个男人都应当有自己的行头，穿着最舒服的衣服。在过去10年里，下述的6件单品不但成了此次胶囊系列中的经典设计，同样成为了福特先生标志性作品的和自己衣橱里的单品。汤姆€€福特农家乐服务员工作服(Tom Ford)作为男装品牌的成功很大1部份缘由在于福特是他自己的品牌，而人们想要穿得像他1样。现在他们真的可以了，1起来了解1下汤姆€€福特先生的分享，1个男人应当有怎样的适合穿着。Every man has his wardrobe go-tos, the things he feels most comfortable wearing. The six items that comprise t

每一个男人都应当有自己的行头，穿着最舒服的衣服。在过去10年里，下述的6件单品不但成了此次胶囊系列中的经典设计，同样成为了福特先生标志性作品的和自己衣橱里的单品。汤姆€€福特(Tom Ford)作为男装品牌的成功很大1部份缘由在于福特是他自己的品牌，而人们想要穿得像他1样。现在他们真的可以了，1起来了解1下汤姆€€福特先生的分享，1个男人应当有怎样的适合穿着。

Every man has his wardrobe go-tos, the things he feels most comfortable wearing. The six items that comprise this capsule collection (detailed below) are exclusive or updated versions of those that have become Mr Ford’s signature pieces over the last decade, both in his collections and his own wardrobe. A large part of the success of Tom Ford as a menswear label is that Mr Ford is his ownbrand: people want to dress like him. And now they really can. Here are the sharing from Mr. Tom Ford, let's learn from him what a proper outfit should be for a man.

关于黑色的穿着风格

On wearing black

“人们总是问我为何常常穿黑色的衣服。答案是，我感到舒适和杭州哪有工作服批发的
自信。重要的是要找到你自己的风格，你自己的风格就是1些让你感到自信的东西。不要由于他人告知你你应当去做就去做你不喜欢的事情。我个人偏向于深色，这样的感觉最好。”

“People always ask me why I wearblackso often. The answer is that I feel comfortable and c三七棉工作服防火
onfident in it. It is important to find your own sense of style, your own look, something that makes you feel confident. Never wear things that you don’t love just because someone else tells you that you should. I personally tend to feel the best in dark colours.”

关于版型裁剪

On tailoring

“现在相当多的西装都是瘦窄版的，而没有任何结构。最糟的是短茄克，好像从后面看把你的臀部份成了两半。我不喜欢没有构造的西装。我更喜欢温顺的拥抱，我喜欢宽阔的肩膀和较宽的翻领。1个瘦小的翻领总是让我觉得茄克看起来很穷€€€€就像有人买不起足够的布料做1个适合的翻领。我觉得西装应当让你觉得更年轻、更整洁，它应当让你的肩膀看起来比较宽，而腰部和臀部看起来小1些。没有甚么比自信更性感或更吸引人的了。记得总是把你的西装外套扣好，它会让你在看上去体重轻10磅，特别是在照片上。”

“Quite a fewsuitstoday are slim-fit with skinny lapels and are unstructured. And the worst thing of all is the short jacket that cuts your butt in half from the back. I don’t like an unconstructed suit. I prefer to be gently held in. I like a strong shoulder and a generous lapel. A skinny lapel always makes me think that the jacket looks poor €€ like someone could not afford enough fabric to make a proper lapel. I think a suit should make you feel younger, 三星公司工作服
trimmer. It should make your shoulders look broad and your waist and hips look smaller. There is nothing sexier or more attractive than confidence and a good suit should give you that. Always keep your suit jacket buttoned. It will take 10lb off of you in life and especially inphotos.”

关于白衬衣

On white shirts

“我喜欢穿平整的白色衬衫并搭配深色西服。它总是看起来很好，而白色让我感觉更干练。它就像是1种图形，每当我感觉不到我最休息的时候，1件新鲜的白衬衫总是让我感觉更集中。我个人总是选择可以打领带的领子并搭配西服。这类风格是我个人的1种偏爱吧，让我在穿西装时感觉不那末守旧。我也几近总是穿1件带法式袖口和袖扣的衬衫，袖扣是1个男人可以穿着的少数几件经典配饰之1。”

“I like the crispness of awhite shirtworn with a dark suit. It always l济宁工作服定做
ooks good and somehow the pop of white makes me feel sharper. It is graphic and whenever I am not feeling my most rested a fresh white shirt always makes me feel more put together. I personally always wear acollar barwith a suit and tie. It is a bit of a style affectation that makes me feel less conservative in a suit. I also almost always wear a shirt with French cuffs andcufflinks€€ cufflinks are one of the few items ofjewellerythat a more classically inclined man can wear.”

关于晚宴穿搭

On evening wear

“使人惊讶的是，我的衣柜里大部份都是晚宴服。虽然我有1整套合适白天工作的搭配，但我认为在晚上还穿西服就有点冒险了。我在晚上会常常穿深色彩的天鹅绒外套。我认为晚上是唯1让男人可以穿得奢侈1些的时间，而且看起来依然很经典和新颖。我喜欢天鹅绒的色彩，没有甚么东西比天鹅绒的色彩更有光泽和饱满。有时候在夏天的晚上，我也会穿天鹅绒。”

“Surprisingly, most of my closet is filled withevening clothes. While I have a very setuniformfor the day in the city, my nighttime uniform is a bit more adventurous and I often wear deep coloredvelvet evening jackets. Night is the one and only place that I think that men can really dress in an extravagant way and still look classic and chic. I love velvet for the way that it takes colour. Nothing takes colour as well or looks so rich. I wear velvet even in the summer.”

关于针织衫

On knitwear

“我很少穿针织品。这只是我个人的选择，由于大多数时候我更喜欢定制的茄克。穿上针织衫我会感到气场有点弱。但是，周末和朋友们在1起的时候，我很乐意变得弱1些，这样很放松。”

“I rarely wearknitwear. This is simply a personal choice as most of the time I like the armour of atailored jacket. I feel vulnerable in knitwear. However, on the weekends, in a casual situation in the country when I am with friends, I am often happy to feel more vulnerable and relaxed.”

关于着装要求

On dress codes

“我喜欢约请函上清楚地说明着装要求。如果是要求黑色领带，我要知道。如果只是西装和领带，我也想知道。我讨厌这类趋势（在洛杉矶特别流行），比如“创意黑色领带”或“最糟的是节日艳服”之类的约请。这是甚么意思?人们通常会把自己打扮得像棵圣诞树，而这只是1堆乱78糟的东西。请穿上穿适合的礼服，我认为穿得太讲求比穿得不得体好。”

“I like when an invitation spells out clearly what the dress code is. If it is black tie, I want to know. If it is just suits and ties, I want to know that, too. I hate this trend (which is especially prevalent inLA) of saying things on an invitation like ‘creative black tie’ or the worst is ‘festive dress’. What the hell does that mean? Often people turn up looking like aChristmas treeand it is just a complete mess. Wear a propertuxedo. I think being overdressed is better than being underdressed.”

关于香水

On fragrance

“不要惧怕香水。这多是1个男人最重要的风格选择，可以很好地说明你是谁，或你的情绪是甚么样的。我喜欢喷很多香水，还把它们混在1起。不用说，在我的办公室和房子里，每隔20英尺就有1瓶香水，到最后，我就像1个行走的香水罐。只要选对1款很棒的香水，没有人会抱怨你是不是喷得太多了。相反，他们会想靠近你的脖子，深吸1口气。这多是好事，也多是坏事，这取决于你是谁了。”

“Don’t be afraid offragrance. This can be a man’s most memorable style choice and can say a great deal about who you are or what type of mood you are in. I tend to spray on lots and lots of fragrances. And I mix them throughout the day. Needless to say, in my office and house there is a bottle of fragrance just about every 20ft and by the end of the day I am like a walking potpourri. Just choose a great fragrance and no one will complain that you have too much on. Rather they will want to get near your neck and take a deep breath. Which can be a good or bad thing, depending on who you are with.”

而最重要的事情是...

The most important thing of all is...

“放松。时尚与格调应当是提升你的生活，而不是给你带来更多的压力昆山工作服价格
。学会呼吸、冥想，当你平静的时候，你会表现得最好。我喜欢在泡澡的时候冥想，这是我早上做的第1件事，然后在晚上出去之前也要把这1天的疲惫洗干净。如果我在睡觉前还有时间的话，我会静静的躺在水里思考。找1些对你有用的东西吧，帮助你清算头绪，然后1切都会变得更容易，或最少看起来不会那末痛苦。”

“Relax. Style and fashion should enhance your life and not cause you mor焊接时按规定穿戴好工作服
e stress. Breathe. Meditate. When you are calm, you will look your best. I tend to meditate in the bath: first thing in the morning, and then before I go out in the evening to literally wash the day away. Then if I’m lucky once again beforebed. I just lie in the water and think. Find something that works for you and helps to clear your head and then everything will seem easier. Or at least it will all seem less painful.”

来自汤姆€€福特的分享

Shared by Tom Ford

配音：Dan Rookwood，MR PORTER美国版编辑

导演：Jacopo Maria-Cinti， MR PORTER美国版艺术总监

字幕：Wenye

Words by Mr Dan Rookwood, US Editor, MR PORTER

Film by Mr Jacopo Maria-Cinti, Art Director, MR PORTER

Subtitle by Wenye

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